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Chef and owner Fecund Xicohténcatl preparing enchiladas mole at La Cosinita in New Haven, Connecticut. Photo by Lisa Wiltse for the New York Times

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Lisa WIltse
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Chef and owner Fecund Xicohténcatl preparing enchiladas mole at La Cosinita in New Haven,  Connecticut.  Photo by Lisa Wiltse for the New York Times